San Francisco to Carmel-by-the-Sea

After her conference in Atlanta, Laura had a week’s holiday, and had arranged a little tour for us.  First stop was to be Carmel-by-the-Sea, about 300 km south of San Francisco.

You’ve heard of Burger King?  Arend was very impressed by Porridge King which we passed on the way.

 

We took the scenic route beside the sea.  It was a strange feeling to be driving south with the Pacific Ocean on our right.

 

On our left were fields of wildflowers leading up to the mountains.

 

Wind surfers were enjoying the ever-present brisk breeze.  We passed a sign for a tsunami gathering point.  Not surprisingly, it pointed in the opposite direction from the sea.

We enjoyed a Thai lunch at Santa Cruz and continued on our way.

 

In 1771 (one year after Captain Cook sailed to Australia), Franciscan friar Father Junipero Serra established Mission San Carlos de Borromeo de Carmelo at the mouth of what is now the Carmel Valley.  By 1831 Carmel, like the other missions, was secularised and its extensive land holdings divided among several large ranchos, pieces of which eventually formed Carmel-by-the-Sea.

The earthquake of 1906 brought refugees from San Francisco, many of them artists and writers, drawn by the beauty and affordable prices.

 

A walk on the beach revealed a great deal of chunky seaweed and thousands of little flies which flew up in a cloud in front of you at each footstep.

 

You were also advised not to swim, climb on rocks or even paddle because of “life-threatening waves and currents”.  Obviously the large number of surfers we saw felt themselves able to handle any odd life-threatening wave which should come along.

 

The early “bohemians” of Carmel would often gather on the beach for “abalone feasts, fine conversations and libations.”  This group of friends  that we saw seemed determined to continue the tradition, well rugged up against the stiff breeze.  However, I did notice they were prudently as far away from the water’s edge as possible, in case of any life-threatening waves.

 

 

Land prices in Carmel are no longer affordable.  Houses along the beach front are now worth around four million.

 

Carmel is full of beautiful gardens, with more flowers per square metre than any place I’ve ever seen.  Most houses here must have full time gardeners, and even the shops and “ïnns” in particular are densely floralised.

 

Our “ïnn” was called “San Antonio House”.  Pat and I had the Patio Suite (downstairs beside the umbrella) while Laura and Arend had the Treetops Suite (upstairs at the back).

 

Ivied entrance to San Antonio House.

 

Pat on the patio, Patio Suite, San Antonio House.

 

Our “suite” had a certain cosiness and old-worldly charm, which reminded me of English seaside B&Bs.  I later read:  “Residents treasure their village.  They have resisted change and work to protect the legacy left by earlier citizens.”

However, there is nothing old-worldly about the shops.  Think Montville or Noosa plus a few stars.  Laura and I had a bit of a browse, but not being in the market for a Cartier watch or similar, came home empty handed, to Pat’s relief.

 

Arend had worked through the previous night until 5am, so was reluctant to go out with Laura to pick up dinner.