For me, this was one of the most memorable events of our visit, to see first hand what a different lifestyle these people have from our own: firstly, to see what a very hard life they live, and secondly, to see how resourceful they are, making the most of what the land offers, and adapting to the dramatic seasonal changes.
In the dry season, the Tonle Sap River flows into the Mekong at Phnom Penh and then into the sea. From mid-May to early October (the wet season) rains raise the level of the Mekong, backing up the waters of the Tonle Sap, and causing it to flow back into the Tonle Sap Lake, raising the level of the lake by up to ten metres, and flooding the surrounding farming area.
The people have adapted with resourcefulness and simplicity to this powerful seasonal pattern. The farmers on the land bring their animals into their houses, which are built on stilts, and travel about by boat. The people in the floating village of Chong Kneas tow their floating houses to a different part of the lake and continue with life as normal, living on fish from the lake and vegetables which they grow on their boats.
When we were there, the people were preparing for the rainy season. The farmers were checking their boats, and the lake dwellers were preparing for their move.
The place where the boats were moored was so choked with water hyacinth it looked as though the boats were on dry land.
The 28 of us, and our guide, clambered onto a small boat which looked as though it was parked in a garden.
Some children rather solemnly waved us goodbye. It made me wonder if we were going to make it back, or would we disappear beneath the hyacinth, which seemed to be growing as we watched it.
However, our strong young captain gave our boat a hefty shove, the motor chugged into life, and off we churned.
It seemed impossible that a boat could actually make its way through this dense vegetation, but slowly and steadily, we did.
Eventually, the channel became clearer – of water hyacinth at least - and we passed some people fishing in the muddy water.
As we drew closer to the lake, the water became clearer, and we met other boats. Some of them looked hand carved, with added motors.
Some of them were very well laden!
Our guide told us that these two ladies row (no motor for them) to a remote floating village about 30 or 40 kilometres away, which takes them all day and part of the night. They do this because they can get a better price for their goods there.
I hope they make enough money to buy a motor some time soon!
The floating village comes into view:
Fish farms – at least their fish is fresh!
All the children can paddle their own boats, and in fact paddle themselves to school every day.
Running water laid on.
Not sure where they get the power for TV, but there were quite a few aerials.
Shyly waving children,
We stopped at this snack bar/souvenir shop/crocodile farm. The last crocodile I had seen was at the Alice Springs Reptile Centre in June, where we were assured of the thickness and strength of the glass that separated him from us.
There didn’t seem to be all that much separating us from these crocodiles.
This little shop also had a flushing toilet. You flushed it into the lake by pouring in a dipper full of lake water from a bucket.
Their pet dog (I’m assuming it was a pet and not tomorrow’s breakfast) didn’t seem too concerned about the crocodiles.
This is the local servo, where the villagers buy their boat fuel.
The floating houses of Chong Kneas range from substantial barges with fresh paint and wraparound verandas to austere sampans with woven bamboo awnings and small braziers on their bows.
About 1,000 families live in the floating village.
The Chong Kneas primary school, where the children all paddle themselves to school.
It was holiday time, so there were no children there.
Each classroom has a detached toilet, over the lake.
General store.
One staple that the villagers have to buy is drinking water, as the water of the lake is too polluted to drink.
Floating vegetable garden, complete with small tree.
This Buddhist Temple is on a small rise at the edge of the lake. There used to be a lot of monks here, but now there is only one, as that is all the village can support.
When the level of the lake rises, at the end of September, the water will have covered the steps at the right of this picture. The floating houses will be towed by boat to moor around this temple, until the waters of the lake fall again.
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