Friday, May 16, 2014

Miyama-cho to Ine-cho

Saturday, 12th April, 2014.
IMG_4014
The next morning was quite chilly, with frost on the grass.  This is the view from our bedroom window.  Over to the left, you can see where the evergreen trees are being planted to screen Chisa’s house from the bus park.  I hope the trees grow quickly!  

IMG_4016
Chisa had gone to an enormous amount of trouble to plan a trip for us.  Here is how it started:
Leave home about 9:00 to the nearest JR station Hiyoshi.
Get on JR train at Hiyoshi station.
Change trains at Fukuchiyama station.
Get off at Nodagawa station.
Drive to Refre Kayanosato ( a highly recommended restaurant).
The picture is of Fukuchiyama Castle, seen as we were entering Fukuchiyama.  The castle now serves as a local history museum.

IMG_4018
This is how Fukuchiyama Castle looks from the station.  Can you see it?

IMG_4021
The train passed through some very pretty country between Fukuchiyama and Nodagawa, with cherry blossoms in full bloom.

IMG_4023
At Nodagawa, we were met by a friend of Chisa’s, who we were meeting for lunch at a special restaurant.  We couldn’t all fit in his van, so some of us walked.  After sitting in trains for so long, it was very pleasant to walk in the beautiful countryside.

IMG_4026

IMG_4028

IMG_4029

IMG_4032
The restaurant was called Refre Kayanosato.  In more affluent times, it was a part of a luxury resort.  With the coming of the GFC, many of these resorts were forced to close.  This one, with a lot of hard work by the local people, has become a centre for the disabled, with the restaurant providing employment and training for them.

IMG_4033
The grounds were very beautiful, and beautifully maintained.

IMG_4034

IMG_4035

IMG_4036

IMG_4037
We enjoyed a delicious lunch together.

IMG_4038
How’s this for lunch?

IMG_4040
Through a misunderstanding, we ended up with a large beer each, instead of a small beer.  What a problem!

IMG_4041
Chisa’s friend Mr Moro.

IMG_4059
After lunch, we went back to Iwataki station and took a train to Amano Hashidate station, where some students were painting a cherry blossom mural.

IMG_4074
From Amano Hashidate, we took a bus to the coastal village of Ine-cho.
Running along the shore at Ine bay can be found around 230 "Funaya" (houses built on the water's edge with a garage like space for boat mooring beneath).  Funaya developed to make maximum use of the narrow strip of land between the mountains and the sea in this locality where the tidal changes are not so great. On the ground floor is a bay for a boat, a place to put equipment, and a workshop. It is here preparations for fishing trips, maintenance of nets, and drying of fish etc. takes place. Upstairs are the living quarters.

IMG_4070 - Copy
Our accommodation was in a funaya which had been converted into a ryokan.  It was absolutely beautiful!  Here’s the view out the window.
More pictures of our funaya ryokan:  (Yes, we’re back on the floor again.)

IMG_4071

IMG_4072
Heater under the table.

IMG_4078
Look how neatly Chisa can sit on the floor!  The three of us were so ungainly.

IMG_4082
The lower level of our building, where the boat used to be kept.

IMG_4083
The water was extremely clear, and you could easily see the blue and orange starfish.

IMG_4087
Other funaya around the bay.

IMG_4089
You can see here how the funaya neatly occupy the narrow strip of land along the bay between the sea and the surrounding hills.

IMG_4094
We went for a walk along the street around the bay.

IMG_4095
Manhole covers in Ine-cho featured the funaya and boats.

IMG_4103
Up the hill.

IMG_4104
Snowdrop.

IMG_4105
Seafood dinner in a local restaurant.  I think it was still wriggling.
Thank you Chisa for a wonderful day.

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Miyama Kita Village: Folklore Museum

Friday, 11th April, 2014.

IMG_3956

Miyama-Kita village is about 60km north of Kyoto. The village was designated a Japanese cultural heritage site in 1993, because of its traditional untouched scenery and its 38 thatched-roof houses, all facing the same direction, on a gentle slope.   The original framework of the Folklore Museum was built about 500 years ago in the Edo period.  The building was destroyed by fire in 2000, but restored as a museum in 2002.

The roof is very steep so the heavy winter snow will slide off.

We arrived just before the museum closed for the day.

 

IMG_3958

An Edo period style bath.  

 

IMG_3961

Traditional woven household goods.

 

IMG_3963

More woven household goods.

 

IMG_3960

Carol in the attic, where you could see the inside of the thatched roof up close.

 

IMG_3962

Chisa and Akiko in the attic.

 

IMG_3965

Traditional household and farming implements.

 

IMG_3964

The animals were kept inside in winter.

 

IMG_3971

So thongs weren’t invented in Queensland.

 

IMG_3966

As the museum is closed for the day, the step is swept with a traditional short-handled Japanese broom.

You can see three different layers in the thatch.  The materials used are hemp, rice plant and thatch plant.

 

IMG_3970

Chisa under the eaves.

In the past, when people cooked with a wood-burning stove every day, the smoke from the fire helped preserve the thatch by killing the insects that lived in it, and the thatch would last for 40 to 50 years.

Today, wood fires are no longer used, and the life of the thatched roof has been shortened dramatically.  There is only one professional roof thatcher in the village, but he has seven young apprentices working for him, so the people of the village are confident that this tradition will be preserved for future generations.

Monday, May 12, 2014

Miyama Village

Friday, 11th April, 2014.

IMG_3930 - Copy

After the “English Cafe” conversation session, the tour of Chisa’s garden and then Chisa’s delicious lunch, Chisa and Akiko took Carol to the local school, which Akiko’s children attended.  Chisa and Akiko then took all of us to see the village of Miyama, which is famous for its thatched-roof houses.  You can see one of these in the background of this picture.

 

IMG_3948

Miyama Village is a lovely village with 38 thatched roof houses. The houses are all more than 150 years old and people still live there although they are sometimes inconvenient compared to modern houses. People in this village enjoy a quiet life, with almost no restaurants or shops in the village.

 

IMG_3950 - Copy

Bundles of thatch drying.

 

IMG_3951

Here are Carol, Chisa and Akiko walking into the village.  As usual, Frances and I are trailing along behind, taking pictures.

More pictures of the village:

IMG_3952

 

IMG_3954

 

IMG_3955

 

IMG_3977

The flags flying here are for “Boys’ Day”.  Frances bought some.

 

IMG_3979

As it was late afternoon, the “Boys’ Day” flags were being taken down.

 

IMG_3978

Field horsetails interspersed with daffodils.

 

IMG_3982

 

IMG_3983

 

IMG_3984

 

IMG_3989

The village just seemed to nestle itself into the side of the hill.

 

IMG_4010 - Copy

By the end of our visit, it had grown quite chilly.  Akiko drove us to one of the few restaurants in the village where we had a very welcome hot drink.  There we met this beautiful little rosy-cheeked girl called Yuki. 

 

IMG_3996 - Copy

Yuki was happy to show us a traditional dance she had been learning (with castanets).

Carol was happy to join in:

IMG_4003

 

IMG_4006 

IMG_4000

 

IMG_3990 - Copy

We gave Yuki a koala, and she gave us a little beaded necklace she had made.

 

IMG_4012

At the end of the day, we relaxed in front of Chisa’s fire.

 

IMG_4013

Chisa gave us some Japanese jello, another new experience for me.